Because this city is where my story starts, Ill call it Emona,
its Roman name, to shield it a little from the sort of tourist who
follows doom around with a guidebook. Emona was built on Bronze Age
pilings along a river now lined with art-nouveau architecture. During
the next day or two, we would walk past the mayors mansion, past
seventeenth-century town houses trimmed with silver fleurs-de-lis, past
the solid golden back of a great market building, its steps leading down
to the surface of the water from heavily barred old doors. For
centuries, river cargo had been hoisted up at that place to feed the
town. And where primitive huts had once proliferated on the shore,
sycamoresthe European plane treenow grew to an immense girth above the
river walls and dropped curls of bark into the current.
Near the market, the citys main square spread out under the heavy
sky. Emona, like her sisters to the south, showed flourishes of a
chameleon past: Viennese Deco along the skyline, great red churches from
the Renaissance of its Slavic-speaking Catholics, hunched brown medieval
chapels with the British Isles in their features. (Saint Patrick sent
missionaries to this region, bringing the new creed full circle, back to
its Mediterranean origins, so that the city claims one of the oldest
Christian histories in Europe.) Here and there an Ottoman element flared
in doorways or in a pointed window frame. Next to the market grounds,
one little Austrian church sounded its bells for the evening mass. Men
and women in blue cotton work coats were moving toward home at the end
of the socialist workday, holding umbrellas over their packages. As my
father and I drove into the heart of Emona, we crossed the river on a
fine old bridge, guarded at each end by green-skinned bronze dragons.
"Theres the castle," my father said, slowing at the edge of the
square and pointing up through a wash of rain. "I know youll want to
I did want to. I stretched and craned until I caught sight of the
castle through sodden tree branchesmoth-eaten brown towers on a steep
hill at the towns center.
"Fourteenth century," my father mused. "Or thirteenth? Im not
good with these medieval ruins, not down to the exact century. But well
look in the guidebook."
"Can we walk up there and explore it?"
"We can find out about it after my meetings tomorrow. Those
towers dont look as if theyd hold a bird up safely, but you never
He pulled the car into a parking space near the town hall and helped
me out of the passenger side, gallantly, his hand bony in its leather
glove. "Its a little early to check in at the hotel. Would you like
some hot tea? Or we could get a snack at that gastronomia. Its
raining harder," he added doubtfully, looking at my wool jacket and
skirt. I quickly got out the hooded waterproof cape hed brought me from
England the year before. The train trip from Vienna had taken nearly a
day and I was hungry again, in spite of our lunch in the dining car.
But it was not the gastronomia, with its red and blue interior
lights gleaming through one dingy window, its waitresses in their navy
platform sandalsdoubtlessand its sullen picture of Comrade Tito, that
snared us. As we picked our way through the wet crowd, my father
suddenly darted forward. "Here!" I followed at a run, my hood flapping,
almost blinding me. He had found the entrance to an art-nouveau
teahouse, a great scrolled window with storks wading across it, bronze
doors in the form of a hundred water-lily stems. The doors closed
heavily behind us and the rain faded to a mist, mere steam on the
windows, seen through those silver birds as a blur of water. "Amazing
this survived the last thirty years." My father was peeling off his
London Fog. "Socialisms not always so kind to its treasures."
British Parliament asks Amazon to clarify why it pays $9 million in income tax on $23 billion of UK sales.(May 20 2013) Amazon will be called back to give further evidence to members of the British Parliament "to clarify how its activities in the U.K. justify its low corporate...