By the time I was old
enough to be interested in cooking
programs, Julia Child was in her
sixties, so my image of her was always
of an elderly lady with a warbling,
raspy voice presiding over cooking
programs with an authority that I
never understood. Of course, I
was familiar with her famous cook book
but I couldn't fathom what the fuss was
about, and why people so adored her.
Now I understand! Reading the memoir of this feisty "rather loud and unserious" six-foot-two Californian is a huge pleasure, and the photographs of France and the French, mostly taken by her husband, are exceptional. As always, it is so easy to assume that success comes ...
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